No-Roux Mac and Cheese

• portions: 8 servings

Ingrédients

1 lb. medium shell pasta

1 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more

3 Tbsp. unsalted butter, divided

1 small onion, grated on the large holes of a box grater

2½ cups whole milk

12 oz. American cheese, coarsely grated (about 3 cups)

2 tsp. smoked paprika

½ tsp. ground mustard

¼ tsp. cayenne pepper

¼ tsp. ground turmeric (optional)

12 oz. sharp yellow cheddar, coarsely grated (about 3 cups), divided

8 oz. Fontina cheese, coarsely grated (about 2½ cups)

Freshly ground black pepper

Instructions

Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 425°. Cook 1 lb. medium shell pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally, 5 minutes (about half the time indicated on the package directions; pasta will be quite firm, but it will continue to cook in the sauce). Drain pasta and rinse under cold running water; let cool.

Melt 1 Tbsp. unsalted butter in a medium Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium-high heat. Cook 1 small onion, grated on the large holes of a box grater, in melted butter, stirring often, until golden brown and liquid is evaporated, about 5 minutes. Pour in 2½ cups whole milk and cook, stirring occasionally, until just starting to simmer, about 1 minute. Reduce heat to medium-low; add 12 oz. American cheese, coarsely grated (about 3 cups), and cook, whisking vigorously, until mostly melted, about 1 minute. Add pasta, 2 tsp. smoked paprika, ½ tsp. ground mustard, ¼ tsp. cayenne pepper, ¼ tsp. ground turmeric (you won’t taste it, but it helps achieve that sunny orange color), 1 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt, remaining 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, and all but 1 cup from 12 oz. sharp yellow cheddar, coarsely grated (about 3 cups). Cook, whisking constantly and vigorously (it’s important to stick with a whisk here), until butter is melted and pasta is coated in a smooth, homogeneous sauce, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat.

Mix 8 oz. Fontina cheese, coarsely grated (about 2½ cups), into pasta (no need to melt); season generously with freshly ground black pepper. Transfer to a 13x9" baking dish. Scatter remaining 1 cup coarsely grated sharp yellow cheddar over, concentrating around edges. Bake until cheese is melted and bubbling around edges and starting to brown in spots, 10–15 minutes. Do Ahead: Pasta can be boiled and cheeses and onion can be grated 4 hours ahead. Store separately, covered, at room temperature.