Risi e Bisi

Ingrédients

6 cups low-sodium chicken broth

2 sprigs fresh thyme

2-ounce piece Parmesan cheese rind

Kosher salt and ground black pepper

2 tablespoons salted butter, divided

3 ounces pancetta, cut into 1-inch pieces (½ cup)

¾ cup finely chopped shallots

2 medium garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1½ cups Arborio rice

2 cups (10 ounces) frozen baby peas

3 ounces finely grated Parmesan cheese, (1½ cups) plus extra to serve

2 tablespoons lemon juice, or to taste

Instructions

In a medium saucepan over medium-high, combine the broth, thyme, Parmesan rind and ½ teaspoon salt. Bring to a boil, then reduce to low and keep at a bare simmer.

In another medium saucepan over medium, melt 1 tablespoon of the butter. Add the pancetta and cook, stirring, until golden and crisp, about 6 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to transfer to a paper towel–lined plate. Pour off and discard all but 2 tablespoons of the fat.

Return the pan to medium heat and add the shallot and garlic. Cook, stirring, until softened but not browned, about 5 minutes. Stir in the rice and cook until the edges begin to appear translucent, about 3 minutes. Remove and discard the thyme and rind from the broth. Add 2 cups of the broth and 1½ teaspoons salt to the rice and cook, stirring and adjusting the heat to maintain a gentle simmer, until mostly absorbed, about 6 minutes. Add the remaining broth 2 cups at a time, letting it be absorbed before adding more, and simmer until the rice is just tender and quite soupy (a little runny around the edges), 20 to 25 minutes total.

Off heat, stir in the peas and ½ teaspoon pepper. Cover and let sit until heated through, 1 to 2 minutes. Stir in the cheese, the remaining 1 tablespoon butter and the lemon juice. If too thick, add more broth. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Divide among 4 shallow bowls and top with the pancetta and extra Parmesan.

Notes

Don’t forget to simmer the Parmesan rind in the broth. It’s an easy way to add deep savory flavors.

This traditional Venetian dish, usually made in spring when fresh peas are at their best, is similar to risotto but is slightly soupier and not quite as creamy. Medium-grain Arborio rice worked best; it has the necessary starch to thicken the cooking liquid. We used frozen baby peas to give this year-round ease. High-quality Parmesan cheese is key to the dish’s savoriness.