Umami
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Roaster Chicken Wings

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Ingredients

Marinade:

1 qt/960 ml ( 32 fl oz )buttermilk

1 yellow onion, diced

3 stalks celery, with leaves, thinly sliced

2 tbsp (1 fl oz) celery salt

2 tbsp (1 fl oz) kosher salt

1 tbsp (.5 fl oz) ground coriander

1 tbsp (.5 fl oz) ground cumin

1 tbsp (.5 fl oz) cayenne pepper

3 tbsp kosher salt

1 tbsp freshly ground black pepper

Juice and zest of 1 lemon

Wings:

3 lb/1.4 kg (48oz) chicken wings, tips snipped off and split at the “elbow”

2 qt/2 L (64 fl oz) peanut oil

3 cups/380 g (24oz) unbleached all-purpose flour

3 tbsp (1.5oz) kosher salt

1 tbsp (.5oz) freshly ground black pepper

1 tbsp (.5oz) cayenne pepper

Hot sauce for serving

Directions

To Make the Marinade:

In a bowl large enough to accommodate the chicken wings, whisk together all of the marinade ingredients. Let stand at room temperature for 15 to 20 minutes.

Add the Chicken Wings:

Add the chicken wings to the marinade and turn to coat thoroughly. Cover and let marinate in the refrigerator overnight.

Prepare the Oil:

Pour the peanut oil into a Dutch oven or other heavy-bottomed pot, 4 inches deep. Heat the oil to 325°F/165°C on a deep-frying or candy thermometer.

Coat the Wings:

In a shallow bowl, whisk together the flour, salt, pepper, and cayenne. Remove the chicken wings from the marinade and drain. Dredge the chicken wings in the flour mixture, making sure that the wings are well coated on all sides. Shake the excess flour from the wings and carefully add five or six to the hot oil; do not crowd the pot. Cook until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Using tongs, a slotted spoon, or a skimmer, transfer to paper towels to drain. Repeat to fry all the wings, making sure to let the oil return to 325°F/165°C between batches.

Serve:

When all the wings are fried, pile them on a platter and serve immediately with your favorite hot sauce.

Notes

Lydia Shire

Scampo

Serves: 6

Level of Difficulty: Reasonable

This highly seasoned buttermilk marinade may be a departure from your tried-and-true wing recipe, but fans of Scampo in Boston swear by it. I suggest you buy the biggest, meatiest wings you can find and marinate them overnight. (We’re dealing with some pretty assertive spices here, so the wings are going to pick up lots of flavor.) Make sure to keep the cooking oil at a steady 325°F/165°C to lock all that flavor into a golden, crunchy skin. If you want to make these wings even tastier, use a blend of cooking oils—don’t be afraid to add some lard, butter, even Crisco. Each fat will bring something new to the dish.

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